Matt Bromley In Hawaii

Young South African charger and Billabong team rider has been having a solid time for the late season on the North Shore. Matt has been experiencing all sides of the North Shore, from fun waves to giant Waimea, from bouncing off the coral and getting stitches, to serious stink-eye from the hard-core locals, from fun Rocky Point to thundering Off The Wall. We caught him for a few quick questions in between rushing off for another session.

So, where were the biggest waves you surfed in Hawaii?

MB: Waimea. It was a solid 15-foot with all the gnarliest guys out.

How’s the injury going? (Matt got bounced hard on the bottom trying to sneak out at Off The Wall, and got a couple of stitches to the head)

MB: Injury is gold at the moment! I got all the stitches taken out and I’m feeling good for the last few big swells of my trip.

What has been the best thing about Hawaii so far?

MB: Nice locals. Not so much haha. Backdoor and Off The Wall barrels are incomparable to anything I have ever surfed before!

What about the worst thing about Hawaii?

MB: The locals are heavy. The vibe they give towards foreigners makes the whole thing uneasy and super heavy. Sometimes you’re just too scared to go for a wave for fear that a local is going to swing on your inside.

Tell us about your best session ever.

MB: The swell was around six-foot, but a perfect swell direction for Backdoor Pipe. It was also a good, strong period of about 16 seconds. Somehow I got lucky and snagged a frickin super sick late drop and just got spat out.

Then..?

MB: Then got a tetris long big barrel and got clipped at the end. I was so stoked.  Then five minutes later, I paddled into the bomb! It was spitting while I was still in the pit. I cleared it, operated another section, and then came out! I was too psyched! It was probably not the best ever, but it was up there.

What’s next?

MB: The next swell looks off the charts. It looks massive and perfect. I’m not sure where it’s going to be, but it might be outer reefs. I’m going to get my big boards ready and get psyched!

Good luck. Send photos. Be safe.

MB: Thanks guys

 

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